Hello friends. Continuing my journey from Bellano the trail passed through an olive grove. This is private property, there are stairs but no gate. However, further down you can see a sign indicating that this is a private area.
Along the path I encountered several small churches. The entrance portal forms such an arched corridor over the road that it looks both picturesque and inviting. Plus if bad weather catches you on the way, you can wait out the rain here.
I believe the small shops here are used by the locals. Tiny churches are almost always closed and only open during services, so early arrivals can sit and chat with other parishioners. Of course, the church remains closed during the day.
And here’s the first resident of the castle! I think it was taking a nap. I couldn’t help but admire the breathtaking lake views. The panoramic scenery from the castle was spectacular! Along the castle stairs various plants were carefully planted and labeled. And cozy little homes were provided for insects, which are part of the park’s ecosystem.
In my post about Varenna I mentioned the charming ghosts surrounding Vezio Castle. Here I encountered them again. Interestingly, the remains of an ancient reptile were found near the castle. The largest specimen, nearly a meter long, is embedded in the stone here. And at the top there’s a baby Lariosaurus. Lariosaurus was an ancient reptile that once lived in the prehistoric ocean covering the area where the castle and Varenna now stand, feeding on fish. If you’re not afraid of heights, be sure to climb the tower.
A suspension bridge leads to the tower and outside, you can hear the cries of hawks that reside here. During the summer, many events take place at the castle. For example, on weekends, historical reenactments with costumed performances are held for children. However, the underground part of the castle hides some eerie secrets. Apparently a knight spent his final days here. Yes, after the sunlit gardens outside, the crypts looked haunting.
Before leaving the castle, I decided to have lunch there. Most people probably know that tourists often eat pizza for lunch, so I decided to embrace my inner tourist.
North of Varenna in the direction of Lecco, the trail splits into two—an upper and a lower path. I chose the upper one. The trail is almost carved into the rock itself.
The castle rises above Varenna and now I was rising above the castle. I felt like I could sit there for hours, simply watching the boats glide across the water, leaving behind their white foamy trails. Looking at a distant boat, I imagined it as a massive Lariosaurus that had somehow survived until today,sailing toward Varenna, basking in the bright rays of the summer sun.
Hiking this trail feels like a substitute for going to a sauna! I kept climbing higher and higher, as if I needed to conquer the rock itself. About 12 kilometers from Varenna, in a lowland area between the mountains, lies the village of Esino Lario. Looking back I could still see Varenna in the distance. After several hours of climbing and navigating mountain trails, I bypassed Esino Lario and arrived at a well-kept, charming little village. There was a drawing of a donkey on a stone, yet all I saw were cows.
This place is called Ortonella and it is a beautiful village. On my last visit during my hike from Varenna to Bellano, it was raspberry season. This time, the mulberries were ripe. Near Ortonella, there was a designated barbecue area, as well as another near a small pond that had dried up due to drought. I took a short break here but had to hurry, mountain weather darkens much earlier than in open areas.
A new surprise awaited me on the trail: an ancient stone church. It was first mentioned in the 13th century, though it is likely much older. I absolutely love the charm of these small, forgotten stone churches hidden in the mountains.
In the distance I could see the town of Mandello del Lario, that was where I needed to go. Once again the lake view opened up before me.
The Viandante trail felt like it would never end! The forest path sat at an elevation of 900 meters, but what caught my attention was a well-maintained, rolling meadow. After passing through narrow, rocky passages, this place felt like a peaceful oasis. Then I heard cheerful voices in the distance and decided to get closer.
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I had gotten a little lost but ended up meeting some wonderful people. A family here spends every summer in this spot. As children they lived here year-round, so in a way, this remains their family home. Even now they gather together, cooking minestrone, making crafts for Christmas and finding something meaningful to do.
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While the city below was still bathed in the golden glow of sunset, the steep trails had already faded into twilight. Finally the endless descents were over and I arrived in town!
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I didn’t have time to visit the lakeshore, but I caught my train and that was good enough. My little adventure had come to an end. I climbed mountains, descended steep and slippery cliffs and enjoyed every moment.
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Until the next travel post.
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