It was a chilly morning in Manali, Himachal Pradesh, as I took a deep breath, closing the zip of my jacket. A Sony A7III slung over my shoulder, a battery I'd just recharged. The "Great Himalayan Running Festival," a road running event, had begun. It's likely the highest road running event in the world. My job here is to provide hydration to the runners and, if I have time, to videotape them. This is going to be my experience for a few days.
Day 1 – Road Running Event Begins in Manali
Leaving Manali (2050 meters), all the runners slowly began moving towards Rohtang Pass. It's a different matter that after the construction of the Atal Tunnel, there's no need to cross Rohtang Pass, but runners will have to cross it on foot, running. It was nighttime, and the wind was piercing the bones. Feeling the chill, I wondered what the runners must be going through while running in sub-zero temperatures.
I was stationed at Madhi, 35 km from Manali, and while serving hot water and black coffee to the runners, I asked, "Where do you get the passion to run in such rugged terrain?" A runner named Ajit already knows me and asks, "Brother, have you added a touch of altitude to this water?" I say, "Yes," and laugh, stuffing my cold hands into my jacket pockets in -4 degrees.
Moving forward, I take a few videos of runners hydrating. From the top of Rohtang Pass, the moonlight illuminates the dimly lit Manali Valley below. Once all the runners have crossed Rohtang Pass, I continue. The next stop is Keylong village in the Lahaul Valley, located along the Manali-Leh Highway.
The Tea Incident at Keylong (3080 meters) It's now 124 kilometers since the race began, and the morning sun has broken through. Where I wore four layers overnight, I've now reduced to two. This is in Keylong village, where a local We're sitting in a restaurant. The elderly man present there looks at my camera and asks, "Why are these people running?" Sipping hot tea, I say, "These people are running to Leh." The old man, surprised, asks, "How much money will they get for running to Leh?" I place the camera on the table and say, "They won't get any money...finishing this event will be a major achievement in their lives." The old man didn't understand at all why anyone would run a 480-kilometer race, that too without money. Seeing his surprised expression, I said to myself, "This isn't a competition, it's a journey of the soul...runners are running to meet themselves at 5000 meters."
After crossing the Baralacha La (4890 meters) Zingjing Bar, the runners are slowly moving towards the second mountain pass on this highway. Having covered a distance of 75 km, the runners are standing at 4890 meters. I take videos of them here and then move on. The altitude is high, making breathing difficult, and the cool air is cooling my lungs. I want to move as quickly as possible across the mountain pass to escape the cold air.
I see Ajit and offer him a cold drink, which he takes and says, "Brother, I don't need a cold drink, I need some motivation." All I can say is, "Everything will be found at the finish line, and I'm with you all until the end. You will do it...we will finish this race." After talking to the runner who has been running silently for hours, a sense of motivation appears on his face.
Sarchu (4290 meters) At night, I'm sitting in camp with my companions. The highway through the ravines is completely silent, as if it has become mute in the darkness of the night. Because there's almost no electricity here, the stars in the sky are so clear you can pluck them with your hand. We're sitting in a restaurant watching the runners come and go. Sipping hot tea, I watch the runners' expressions...their eyes reflect the fatigue and the yearning to reach their destination.
Naki La (4739 meters) and Lachung La (5065 meters) It's the third day of the race, and the air has become thinner and crisper. The landscapes visible from the highway look like paintings. I ask a woman present, "How do you guys manage to live at such a high altitude?" Looking at my long beard, she says, "We can't bear the heat of the plains, that's why we live so high." The locals are very simple, and every word that comes from their hearts captivates me.
More Plains to Tanglang La (5319 meters) More Plains is nothing short of magical. Driving a 40-kilometer road through such high mountains is an adventure in itself, raising the adrenaline rush in my body. The road is so long, it feels like we'll reach Mars if we continue on it. Reaching Tanglang La, we all look at each other. No one said anything at such a height, but everyone's eyes were filled with excitement that the race would end the next day.
I would like to end this journey here because I still remember this journey in June. It reminds me of the volunteer in me every day. Now again. I'll be going to this place next June to experience it. Are you coming with me on this journey now?
Disclaimer: This post is originally written in Hindi and I have used Google Translator to translate the Hindi text in English. All the photos have been clicked by me from canon 77d (55-250mm) and edited on laptop lightroom app, and post thumbnail created in adobe photoshop.
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