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Hello everyone! Last April I had the incredible fortune to fulfill a dream: to visit the Galapagos Islands. This was possible thanks to the German-Cuban collaboration and the network of researchers to which I belong. This archipelago in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, about 1,000 km off the coast of Ecuador, is much more than a tourist destination; it's a living museum of evolution and a fascinating testament to the power of our planet. Let me tell you a little about this wonder. It's an archipelago of volcanic islands, and I was lucky enough to visit four of them. I entered through San Cristobal, the administrative capital of the islands. Then we went to Santa Cruz, followed by the small island of Floreana, and finally, we went to Isabella, the largest of all. Since it was such a long trip and there was so much to explain, I decided to write one post per island, this way I can share everything I learned there. Without further ado, here we go.
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The first thing that's impressive is understanding where these islands came from. Forget ancient continents: The Galapagos are babies! Geologically speaking, they're very young. Imagine a hot spot under the ocean floor, like a giant, permanent torch. Above this spot, the Earth's crust (one of its plates) moves slowly, like a conveyor belt. Millions of years ago: That hot spot began spewing lava under the sea. Over time, so much lava accumulated that it broke the ocean surface, forming the first volcanic island. The "Conveyor Belt" in Action: The tectonic plate (called the Nazca Plate) didn't stop. It kept moving eastward. The hot spot remained stationary, but now it was beneath a new point on the seafloor... and it began to form another island! And then another, and another. The Result: A chain of islands, like pearls on a necklace. The easternmost islands (like San Cristóbal) are the oldest (a few million years old). The westernmost islands (like Fernandina and Isabela) are the youngest, and are still active! In fact, we saw fumaroles in the distance and landscapes of fresh black lava that looked like they were from another planet. It's literally like seeing the creation of new land. This isolation and youth are key to the magic of the Galapagos. Life arrived here by swimming, flying, or floating from afar. The species that managed to establish themselves evolved in unique ways to adapt to these volcanic islands. And boy did they! They aren't afraid of humans here (thanks to strict conservation regulations), so the experience is intimate and amazing. April was perfect. The equatorial climate is stable, with sunny, hot days, but the sea was generally calm (important for boat trips between islands!). The water is warm and crystal-clear, ideal for snorkeling. Plus, it was breeding season for many birds and sea lions, so we saw lots of chicks and pups, which added an extra dose of warmth to the trip. The heavy rains had passed, leaving the highlands green and fresh.
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San Cristóbal isn't "just another island." It's the oldest in the entire archipelago (about 4 million years old). Think of it as the "grandmother" of the Galapagos. While the western islands (like Isabela) still spit out fresh lava, San Cristóbal shows what happens over time: Its volcanoes are extinct. Erosion has softened their shapes, creating green hills and reddish cliffs. In places like Punta Pitt (in the northeast), you'll see layers of lava and ash piled up like a geological cake. They're a photo album of past eruptions! Since the archipelago forms over a hot spot as the tectonic plate shifts, San Cristóbal is the farthest from that hot spot. That's why it's the oldest and most peaceful. The biodiversity here is astonishing! And the best part: everything is close by. The capital, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, is small and cozy, but in minutes you're surrounded by nature. Sea lions, everywhere! They sleep on benches along the boardwalk, play on La Lobería beach (which bears their name!), and will be curious if you swim nearby. In April, we saw newborn chicks learning to swim. Pure cuteness! It's the only place in the Galapagos where you can see ALL THREE SPECIES of boobies together: the famous blue-footed, the elegant red-footed (rare), and the Nazca (black and white). A spectacle of colors and sounds. There are also frigate birds inflating their red pouches and swallow-tailed gulls. At the "David Rodríguez" Breeding Center (next to Tijeretas Hill), we learned about efforts to save these giants. We saw baby turtles and majestic adults. Some live over 100 years! Marine Iguanas & Lava Lizards Black as coal, sunning themselves on volcanic rocks near Carola Beach. We saw them spit salt after snorkeling. Quite a natural spectacle! Flora of Contrasts, arid coastal area: Dominated by candelabra cacti and thorny shrubs. As we climb toward La Soledad or El Junco, the mist ("garúa") creates a humid forest full of mosses, ferns, guayabillos, and the iconic Scalesia pedunculata (a tree in the daisy family!). The contrast with the coast is magical. Experiences Not to Be Missed Snorkeling at León Dormido (Kicker Rock): A MUST! This volcanic rock, resembling a lying lion, is home to sharks, rays, sea turtles, and schools of tropical fish. The water is deep and crystal-clear. Laguna El Junco: The only freshwater lagoon in the Galapagos, inside the crater of an extinct volcano. Ideal for birdwatching and experiencing the peace of the heights. Tijeretas Lookout: A short walk from town leads to this lookout point with spectacular views. Under the cliff, snorkel with turtles and rays! Dream Beaches: Playa Mann (in town) and Puerto Chino (white sand and turquoise waters) are ideal for relaxing next to sea lions.
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San Cristóbal is not only geologically fascinating; it's also historical. Charles Darwin landed here in 1835. Walking its trails, seeing the finches (his "inspirers"!), and understanding how time shapes islands and species makes you feel part of something great. It's an island that has it all: accessible wildlife, dramatic volcanic landscapes, idyllic beaches, and the warmth of its people. If you go to the Galapagos, don't miss "Grandma." She holds secrets that she only reveals to those who visit with respect and curiosity. In a future post, we'll learn about another of the islands in this fascinating place.