Hello everyone and welcome to my blog :-)
I woke up with that hangover feeling, but it wasn't the wine or the craft beer from the night before. It was a kind of emotional hangover, a melancholic emptiness mixed with curiosity. We'd been to the party in Tavira, and I wanted to see the same streets in a different light.
PT
Acordei com aquela sensação de ressaca, mas não foi o vinho, nem a cerveja artesanal da noite anterior. Era uma espécie de ressaca emocional, um vazio melancólico misturado com curiosidade. Tinhamos estado na festa em Tavira, e queria ver as mesmas ruas com outra luz.
Yes, it was premeditated. I knew what I wanted to photograph, and it wasn't just the clean, calm streets, but the invisible trace that night leaves on cities. That dense silence that settles in the mornings after intense moments.
PT
Sim, foi premeditado. Eu sabia o que queria fotografar e não era apenas as ruas limpas e calmas, mas o rastro invisível que a noite deixa nas cidades. Aquele silêncio denso que se instala nas manhãs seguintes aos momentos intensos.
It was early, but the sun was already casting shadows in the narrow alleys of the historic center. The Portuguese stone sidewalks were still fresh from the dew, and the city seemed to wake up slowly, like someone waking up on a Sunday without an alarm clock. Tavira has that half-asleep air, but don't be fooled. Behind the tranquil facade hides a vibrant city, full of life, history, and, of course, wonderful food (but let's get to that).
PT
Era cedo, mas o sol já desenhava sombras nos becos estreitos do centro histórico. As calçadas de pedra portuguesa ainda estavam frescas do orvalho, e a cidade parecia acordar com lentidão, como quem acorda num domingo sem despertador. Tavira tem esse ar meio adormecido, mas não se deixem enganar. Por trás da fachada tranquila esconde-se uma cidade vibrante, cheia de vida, história e, claro, comida maravilhosa (mas já lá vamos).
As I walked, I captured a few images: a couple entering the market, a Portuguese gentleman, probably a local, reading the newspaper on the terrace as if watching the world in slow motion, tourists, and even the postman. This couldn't be staged. It was pure Tavira.
PT
Enquanto caminhava, fui captando algumas imagens, um casal a entrar no mercado , um senhor português, provavelmente local, a ler o jornal na esplanada como se estivesse a assistir ao mundo em câmara lenta, turistas e até o carteiro. Isto não podia ser encenado. Era Tavira pura.
What fascinates me about Tavira is this constant contrast between old and new. It's a city that was once one of the most important ports in the Algarve during the Age of Discovery, but today drifts along with the calm tide of conscious tourism, almost as if to say: "Come, but come slowly." We learned that Tavira's municipal market was once a vibrant hub for fresh fish, mountain fruits, and produce from all over the region. Opened in 1887 (yes, that's the level of history here), the market has undergone several transformations and today is a delightful blend of tradition and modernity. They still sell fresh vegetables harvested from neighboring farms, but now we also find artisanal cheeses, local wine, and even gourmet products made right next door.
PT
O que me fascina em Tavira é este contraste constante entre o velho e o novo. É uma cidade que já foi um dos portos mais importantes do Algarve durante a era dos Descobrimentos, mas que hoje se deixa levar pela maré tranquila do turismo consciente, quase como se dissesse: “venham, mas venham devagar”. Aprendemos que o mercado municipal de Tavira foi, outrora, um entreposto vibrante de peixe fresco, frutas da serra e produtos que vinham de toda a região. Inaugurado em 1887 (sim, é esse o nível de história aqui), o mercado passou por várias transformações e hoje é uma mistura saborosa de tradição e modernidade. Ainda se vendem legumes frescos apanhados nas quintas vizinhas, mas agora também encontramos queijos artesanais, vinho local e até produtos gourmet feitos ali ao lado.
Strolling through the market is like peering into the heart of the city: inside, people still exchange stories instead of emails. And that's worth its weight in gold.
PT
Passear pelo mercado é como espreitar o coração da cidade: lá dentro, ainda se trocam histórias em vez de emails. E isso, vale ouro.
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And since we're talking about the heart, let's move on to the stomach. There are restaurants hidden in alleys with poetic names like "A Ver Tavira," where you can eat with a view of the Roman bridge, or "Casa Simão," with grilled dishes that would make any carnivore reconsider their diet. Flavors like octopus à lagareiro, razor clam rice, and convent sweets are part of the charm. Each dish tells a story, each bite a journey through time, and if you're lucky, you might even find a restaurant with live fado music. Melancholy has a sound and sings in Portuguese.
PT
E já que estamos a falar de coração, vamos ao estômago. Há restaurantes escondidos em vielas com nomes poéticos como “A Ver Tavira”, onde se come com vista para a ponte romana, ou o “Casa Simão”, com grelhados que fazem qualquer carnívoro reconsiderar a dieta. Sabores como o polvo à lagareiro, o arroz de lingueirão e os doces conventuais são parte do encanto. Cada prato é uma história, cada garfada uma viagem no tempo e, se tiverem sorte, talvez ainda apanhas um restaurante com fado ao vivo. A melancolia tem som e canta em português.
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As morning turned to afternoon and the heat began to set in, we sat by the Gilão River, where boats bob lazily and people return from the beach on the ferry. I sat there wondering: do cities also have hangovers? Does Tavira, after a night of partying, also wake up feeling a little dizzy, but satisfied?
PT
À medida que a manhã se transformava em tarde e o calor começava a apertar, sentamo-nos à beira do rio Gilão, onde os barcos balançam preguiçosos e as pessoas voltam da praia no ferry. Fiquei ali a pensar: será que as cidades também têm ressacas? Será que Tavira, depois de uma noite de festa, também acorda meio zonza, mas satisfeita?
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I don't know. But I know there are places that speak to you without saying a word. Tavira is one of them. And me? I always go back. Because there are silences that tell us more than a thousand conversations. And because, honestly, I haven't tried all the sweets in the market or all the clams yet.
PT
Não sei. Mas sei que há lugares que te falam sem dizer uma palavra. Tavira é um deles. E eu? Volto sempre. Porque há silêncios que nos dizem mais do que mil conversas. E porque, sinceramente, ainda não provei todos os doces do mercado nem todas as ameijoas.
I hope you enjoyed. See you around. Wishing you much peace and health
Those who pass by us do not go alone. They leave a bit of themselves, taking a piece of us." Author: Antoine de Saint-Exupery, The Little Prince.
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Text & Photography by @Onyfest
With love @onyfest