Paradise found.
You don't have to look very far to find paradise in Phuket. It's everywhere. White sandy beaches, clear turquoise waters, and a backdrop of lush mountains. But when you find one of these glorious places and there's just a smattering of people, well, that is really something special. Bring on Layan beach at the northern end of Bang Tao. Paradise with a capital 'P'.
Layan Beach
This heavenly spot has an island that is so close you can swim across to it, and an inlet leading to a river. The waters are a stunning aquamarine that are so crystal clear we could see our anchor and chain lying on the seabed. The sand is a glowing expanse of white edging the jungle. At high tide we dinghied through the channel and up the little river where many longtail fishing boats anchor in the calm waters. At low tide there's alot of sand exposed and the channel and inlet becomes very shallow and the one tree that grows right in the middle there seems to survive very well on salt water. To add to this particular Paradise, it's a west facing bay. Awesome sunsets.
This particular part of Bang Tao is a national park reserve known as Sirinat. That means no resorts and no beach chairs and umbrellas lining the shore. Just one little restaurant on the beach that keeps the beer cold and the food fresh. There's also a group of massage ladies ready to massage away all your aches and pains.
the island through the national park forest
the inlet
saltwater tree
the river
Living on a boat means constant repairs and maintenance. In the travelling yachtie world it's known as 'fixing your boat in exotic locations '. And that certainly sums up Layan Beach. What a pristine location to do some maintenance. For me, it was stainless steel polishing and cleaning the waterline of the hull. For Hubby it was all about swimming with the fishes. And, no, I did not throw him overboard with cement boots on. He dragged the hookah out of the cabin and set himself up for some diving/hull cleaning. For those of you chuckling, the hookah dive kit is a surface supply diving system. It makes cleaning the hull alot easier than being a free diver in training.
Hubby playing with the hookah
Our boat became home to an enormous ball of bait fish. These fish completely surrounded us. It was like watching a synchronised swimming event. Swimming with them was even more entertaining. I felt like a conductor as I swam through, parting the masses, waving my arms and watching them move around me in streams and swirls of choreographed fish.
We took one memorable trip into shore for a cold beer and some late lunch. Just as we pulled up in the dinghy Hubby yelled "Wave coming!". Out of a flat sea was a big wave coming in fast. Hubby jumped over the side and disappeared straight into the wave. I was already out of the dinghy but the force of the wave pushed the dinghy straight at me, knocking me off my feet, and dumped under the wave. So, there was the both of us, rolling around in the sand, soaking wet while anyone watching must have been dying of laughter. I chuckle every time I picture us. We picked ourselves up, secured the dinghy, after draining all the water out of course, then wandered up to the restaurant as cool as cucumbers. Well, dripping wet and squeezing the water out of our clothes but... whatever.
Not the wave that knocked us over
We hired a scooter, as you do, and explored Bang Tao town. 5 star resort after 5 star resort. Restaurants featuring food from all over the world, ritzy coffee shops, international supermarkets and fancy weed shops. Yep, weed shops. Now that marijuana is legal in Thailand there are weed shops everywhere. Even in 5 star Bang Tao.
As busy and bustling as Bang Tao is and all that it offers, give me the calm, tranquil and mostly tourist-free Layan beach any day. I think it is a prerequisite of a sailor to enjoy solitude. The more I have of it the more I enjoy it.
Until next time, Watusi Woman - reclusive sailor, out.
