Heeeyho Readers! Let's stroll along the coast in Italy.
“No person who has not spent a period of his life in those ‘stark and sullen solitudes that sentinel the Pole’ will understand fully what trees and flowers, sun-flecked turf and running streams mean to the soul of a man.” — Sir Ernest Shackleton
Those months roaming Europe on a bicycle as winter approached never scratched what it must have felt to be isolated in Antarctica. Nevertheless, my experience, although not in complete stark and sullen solitude, proved tiring after days of rough camping and facing gelid winds.
The decision to cycle from Poland down to Italy (instead of elsewhere) proved correct. I missed the sun's warmth and less challenging days, although some level of adventuring, under harsh conditions, appeal to me.
After spending 2018 Christmas by myself, I finally created enough courage to leave Koper and get on going with the quest to reach the UK. Shortly after crossing Trieste on a warm morning, this charming place called Pascola Beach attracted me. I'd forgotten how peaceful strolling along the coast with no particular place to go was.
Sail boats off the Gulf of Trieste
Boats are a hidden adventuring dream. I'm uncertain how I developed this taste, as I've only stepped in a sailboat twice. Sailboat stories such as Amyr Klink's and Shackleton's are certainly among the sources of inspiration. I grab a piece of bread and sit on a rock staring at the docks while taking photos before continuing.
Barcola Beach
I wonder why the place is called Barcola Beach when there's no sand, nor rolling waves, and certainly not a guy shouting cerveja gelada, cerveja gelada. Perhaps the concept of beach is different for a Brazilian. I like it nonetheless.
Gulf of Trieste
View from Barcola Beach
A castle looms in the distance. Or more like a palace. "Castello di Miramare," says, in a singsong tone, the Italian lady right next to me. She advises that I go take a look.
Miramare Castle is a 19th-century castle direct on the Gulf of Trieste between Barcola and Grignano in Trieste, northeastern Italy. It was built from 1856 to 1860 for Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian and his wife, Charlotte of Belgium, later Emperor Maximilian I and Empress Carlota of Mexico. The architecture is based on a design by Carl Junker. Maximilian and Charlotte were able to enjoy the castle for only four years before leaving for Mexico, where Maximilian was crowned Emperor Maximilian of Mexico, only to be executed by firing squad in 1867.
After reading about the castle, I discovered it hides some urban stories. Some say that Charlotte, mad with grief after the execution of Ferdinand still wanders in the castle calling his name. Legend has it that he who shall spend the night at the castle will be doomed to die a violent death prematurely in a foreign land. Intrigued, I continue towards the entrance. I'm already in a foreign land and won't let go of a chance to sleep in there.
Castello di Miramare
However, entry is denied as I get to the gates. I have to content with the lovely beach of crystal clear waters and the stares of tourists towards myself and my fully loaded bicycle. "You cycle touring," asks a guy in heavy eastern European English. I nod. He's impressed that I'm bicycle traveling during the winter and asks to take some photos with me. I consent.
Shore at the Gulf of Trieste
I spend some time enjoying the afternoon fiddling with the camera. There's nowhere else to go but backward and into the Trieste Coastal Road, or Panoramic Road, that will take me to Monfalcone.
Shore at the Gulf of Trieste
More often than ever my trips are not extraordinary expeditions full of mishaps – although I ended up sleeping under a bridge that night. Most of what I don't show are wanderings on mundane places, with permission to enjoy myself without worrying about survival. This tim was no different.
I hope you have enjoyed this post. Until next time.
Peace.
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Disclaimer: The author of this post is a convict broke backpacker, who has travelled more than 10.000 km hitchhiking and more than 5.000 km cycling. Following him may cause severe problems of wanderlust and inquietud. You've been warned.
